Leibhaftig is a bar that serves Bavarian Tapas, but is also the home of a hausbrauerei, Wanke Brau. At the moment it serves a pilsner and a weissbier, both of which are very good. These are brewed on commission by brewery Schleppzig in the Spreewald, about 60 kms outside Berlin. Talking to Marcus Wanke the brewer, he says he has a rye beer on the go, but only does dark beers in winter.
I left it for a couple of days to recover from the information overload which was my trip to Field Station, Berlin or Teufelsberg as it is more commonly known.
Today however I went through the photos I had taken of the art works on the mountain
Built on an artificial mountain created after WWII, the Cold War listening post ran from 1963 through to the early 1990s. Once the operators left however, the site was abandoned and fell into the sort of ruin you see today. Since about 2010, volunteers have gradually cleared out some of the rubble and attempted to preserve what is left.
Since 2012 a community of groups including artists and historians have worked to bring life back to the Devil’s Mountain, including tours and art events.
The other two photos here are the Pergamon altar and the Ishtar Gate into Babylon
It is hard to describe the Pergamom Museum for it is unlike most museums that I have visited in that much of its contents are large pieces of ancient buildings which have been rebuilt inside the walls of the museum, and in fact the museum has been designed to house some of these large buildings.
I hardly know where to start with describing Teufelsberg (or Devil’s Mountain). I went up there today on a tour led by former US Army analyst Christopher McLarren. McLarren was stationed here at Field Station Berlin during the Cold War and since settling in Berlin, has become an expert on not only it’s history as a listening post, but also on how the mountain was created, and what has happened since the station was closed in the 1990s. It was a fascinating and personal tour dotted with anecdotes of spies caught (Valery Kirukhin) and missed ( James W. Hall )
I’ll write separately about the art work on the site but so far this has been my favourite trip in Berlin, including as it does, a walk through the Grunewald to get there.
Just like the suburb I normally live in, cycling is very big in Berlin generally, and in Prenzlauer in particular. There are however some noticeable differences.
Very few people wear helmets
I have seen some children with helmets and two adults, but that is about it. Everyone else wears what they would normally wear out, beanies, caps, or scarves. looking at the laws, since 2011 “helmets are required by law for children under 13 years old”
No-one wears lycra
Well I assume there are some people who wear lycra, but I have yet to see anyone wearing much more than their normal street clothes. I have seen a couple of people wearing sweat pants and shirt but that is about it.
Most people ride street cycles
I assume there are bicycles with racing handlebars and skinny tyres but I haven’t really seen any around this area. What I have seen is lots of comfortable street bikes, and customisation is normally to add wooden shopping baskets or the like
Nobody rides very quickly
Most of the actually cycling I’ve seen is more in the way of a promenade through the leafy streets and cafes. I have seen people in the heavy traffic areas riding more quickly commuting from work, but no packs of riders on the roads. I assume this adds to the lack of helmets as there is little speed involved on either side most of the time.
Cycling is obviously only part of the picture
Since arriving I’ve seen numerous people smoking as they cycled along, and one guy with his shopping hanging off one handlebar, and an open bottle of beer in the other hand. They looked very civilised. I did also see some-one riding while talking on a mobile phone which I understand is illegal.
Quite a good beer served off a wooden keg at the currywurst stall at the local markets. It interested me that all beer and wine is served in glassware even at outdoor venues like this where you would suspect the cobblestones would be very unforgiving. Price was €2.50 for 300ml so good value as well.
Our local U-bahn stop is U Eberswalderstrasse. After the first day we stopped bothering with the timetables as we have never waited more than three minutes for a U2 train heading in the direction we wanted to take.
This finch was sitting on the back of the chair across from me – they are quite common in this area and there were a couple having a dust bath where some of the cobbles had come adrift outside our front door.
White asparagus is a seasonal crop, and according to the locals one of the few vegetables that is only found in the shops in April and May. Many restaurants and families have their own recipes for it’s preparation but mostly I’ve found it with a cream sauce.